On a small desk-sized counter near the street window, Kamekichi Fujiwara slaps down a ball of dough and begins rolling. The 86 year old owner of Tony’s Pizza in the Kichijoji district in western Tokyo, it is kneaded until a lump is formed: a mix of yeast and protein rich Oshon flour—commonly used to make tough, elastic windows—begins to give.
“I’m probably the only one in Japan who doesn’t use a floured board,” says Fujiwara. “Tasteless, dry flour sucks the flavor and moisture from the dough.
What follows is, more or less, what Fujiwara has been doing for the past 56 years: a scoop of his secret tomato sauce comes on, followed by toppings: pineapple, bacon, diced tomatoes, sweet corn, green peppers, onions, ground beef, and a layer of three cheeses: Edam, mozzarella and Maribo.
