The writer cycles part of the Biwaichi route.
12:54 JST, September 7, 2024
OTSU — Cycling around Lake Biwa has become such a popular outdoor activity in Shiga Prefecture that enthusiasts have given the 200-kilometer circuit around the country’s largest lake its own name: “the Biwaichi.”
The Biwaichi route — derived from Biwa and “isshu,” meaning one lap — was designated as the first national bicycle route by the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism in 2019. In 2023, 128,000 cyclists cycled the Biwaichi, the highest number ever on a route, according to a prefectural census.
This summer I decided to climb Biwaichi and visited the experts in the field, the staff of Cycle Station Biwaichi in Otsu, for advice.
My original plan was to complete the trek in one day. But Cycle Station manager Masahiro Morita talked me out of it. “For a beginner, completing the Biwaichi in one day is not a leisure activity, but an ascetic test of discipline.”
To do it around Lake Biwa in one day, you have to leave around 5am and pedal at a steady 18km/h until sunset. In other words, it’s impossible for me.
Morita said many people start with partial rides, such as biking around the smaller southern section of the lake, which is bisected by the Biwako Ohashi Bridge. Biwaichi’s website introduces a number of half-day routes, as well as plans for multi-day rides along the entire route.
Finally, on Morita’s advice, I decide to make the 50-kilometer trek from Otsu to Moriyama.
I rent a cross bike from Cycle Station with fat tires and a stable ride, which I like best. There are also other types of bikes available, such as the lighter, faster racing bikes and electrically assisted e-bikes for those who are not sure about their endurance in the legs.
I wear cycling shorts for easy range of motion and sneakers that I feel comfortable in. I wear a helmet, wrap a towel around my neck and use arm sleeves to prevent sunburn. With two bottles of water I am ready to go.
I set off at 10:00 from the starting point at Otsu Port at a leisurely pace. As a designated national route, the cycle path is marked with blue arrows, lines and signs, or completely separated from the road, which makes for safer cycling.
That said, there are sections where traffic is heavy or the route is cut off, depending on the route, which makes it a bit scary. Those who get lost are advised to stop and confirm their location using the Biwaichi Cycling Navi cycling app. The app also shows tourist spots, bike parking and other useful information. I recommend using it.
Of course, traffic rules must be observed, including cycling on the left side of the road. Pedestrians have priority. Stopping too short increases the risk of falling, so watch your speed.
Forty-five minutes into the ride, I can already feel the heat. Sweat is pouring down my forehead. “Don’t overdo it,” I tell myself. It’s still a bit early, but I take a break at Aeon Mall Kusatsu, about 10 kilometers from the start.
The mall is home to one of 359 bicycle support stations across Shiga Prefecture certified by the prefecture, where tires can be inflated or repairs can be performed.
After catching my breath, I continue my journey. My next destination is No. 2 Nagisa Park on the shore of Lake Moriyama, about 18 kilometers away. This part has uphill sections and is harder than I expected.
I notice that my thighs are bright red. I forgot to protect my legs from the sun. Cursing myself for not wearing leggings, I cycle on and finally arrive at the park, three hours after I started.
A beautiful view of the lake and a blue sky spread before my eyes, wiping away my tiredness. “This is the reason for the popularity of Biwaichi,” I think to myself. With a pleasant sense of satisfaction, I take a photo in front of the monument that says “BIWAKO” in the park.
After enjoying the view of the vast Lake Biwa from the Biwako Ohashi Bridge, I follow the route back to the port of Otsu, arriving at 4 p.m. The total journey took about six hours. It was much shorter than the full circuit of the lake, but the experience was enough to get a feel for the charm of the Biwaichi.
“I want the Biwaichi to spread the joy of cycling,” Morita said.
Next time I might go to the northern part of the lake, maybe in the fall when the weather is better. Then the Biwaichi will be complete for me — I am excited already.
Meeting cyclists
Along the Biwaichi, there are 58 accommodations designated by the prefecture as bicycle-friendly. Under a program that began in 2022, accommodations must meet criteria such as allowing guests to bring their bicycles into the rooms.
Hotel Biwa Lake Otsuka offers rooms where cyclists can bring their bikes.
Rooms at Hotel Biwa Lake Otsuka start from ¥10,450 per night without meals. Some rooms are equipped with massage chairs to soothe tired muscles.
“We offer hospitality from the cyclists’ point of view,” says hotel manager Akihiro Yamagiwa.
There is also a youth hostel for budget travelers, which costs around ¥4,000, and there are inns with hot springs.
